The hand made lace is one of the most ancient arts

The hand made lace came to Europe in the 17th century. The fashionable laces of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were made using bobins or needle, and these are still the two main techniques. It came to Europe as a separate and developed art and got there a further growth. Later the progress led to the development of the machine-made lace. Nevertheless, the hand made masterpieces did not disappear! The hand made lace remains popular and claimed.
The hand made lace, ornamental fabric consisting of a decorative openwork of threads that have been twisted, looped and interwined to form patterns. As so defined, lace is distinguished from open-textured woven fabrics such as gauze; from knotted openwork such as net and macrame; from tatting, a lacy knotted fabric made with a small shuttle; and from crocheted and knitted openwork, in which the fabric is formed by looping a single thread into a textile by means of a hook (crochet) or long needles (knitting). The lace-maker tatted it from more rough strings which were especially fashionable than other kinds of a lace, and were used to furnish outer clothing, curtains and hangings. After October 1917, the hand made lace was proclaimed a lordly invention in Russia.The bobbin laces are classified into coupling, multi pair and numerical (unpinned). As against other kinds of laces, these trudge not one but several threads at once, which have been reeled up, on special adaptations - bobbin. In Russia, such hand made lace is known from the thirteenth century. The first mention of laces is dated to 1252. The first known Russian laces have been plaited from gold and silver strings and decorated with pearls. It was so-called "gold" lace. The makers wound the thinnest metal strings on the cotton basis. This string (referred to as beat) made basis for bright intricate patterns. On weaving it there were lattices from "spiders" and bases. The ornament of such works had vegetative character and consisted of tulips and carnations, or the whole vases with bouquets and has been outlined by a thin gold band on a background of openwork lattices. Since the eighteenth century, the multi-colored silk strings began to enter the world of laces. Russian skilled workers mastered pair and numerical techniques of laces weaving. In Europe, the makers started to use needle point in laces. The hand made laces have appeared in the beginning of the sixteenth century in Genoa. The occurrence of metal pins became an important step for the development of lace. Without them neither coupling nor pair techniques (technical equipment) were possible, and they appeared just in the sixteenth century. From Italy, the center of lacing moved to Flanders. The Italian guipure in the seventeenth century attracted great attention in France. Imported from overseas laces came to Russia with fashion for the European dress in Peter the Great period. Russian needlewomen enriched overseas patterns with motives of Russian national embroidery, so that the wicker lace went down to the history of the world culture under the name of Russian. In the process of proliferation to different districts, the hand made lace spread out to regions like: Vologda, Cirishsky, Vyatsky, Moscow, Ryazan. As compared to other kinds of weaving, the bidden lace was not the occupation for leisure. It used to be a slow, rural business, no entertainment at all. When working on a lace embroidered with a needle, the skilled workers laid on contours of the pattern drawn on parchment a thick thread, attaching its fine stitches to parchment with cloth laid under parchment. After that, all space limited to a planimetric thread, being as though a loopy seam filled with a skeleton of an ornament. Thin bunches incorporated separate details of an ornament. After the work was finished, the scissors were passed between the parchment and the cloth, the basting was cut. After about 1900 to 1910, machine-made lace became more widespread. Large quantities of lace were made in China fpr export to Europe and the United States. The success of machine manufacture, together with the social changes brought about by World War 1, dealt a deathblow to the craft of hand made lace everywhere. Lace-making by hand survives somewhat feebly in some of the old lace centres, and it is occasionally practised as an amateur craft.
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