Added: 12/07/2005 |
Alpha hydroxy acid for skin rejuvenationAlpha hydroxy acid belongs to the entire family of different acids. They are usually derived from fruit, sugar or milk. That is why these acids are sometimes called lactic acids (extracted from milk) or glycolic acids (extracted from sugar). These are the most commonly used acids for the reason they are able to penetrate the skin and trap moisture inside of it.
Thus, there are several types of alpha hydroxy acid used in modern cosmetics manufacturing:
-citric acid, made from oranges and lemons,
-tartaric acid, made from grapes,
-glycolic acid, made from sugar cane,
-lactic acid, made from milk,
-malic acid, made from apples and pears.
Alpha hydroxy acid is known to work mainly as an exfoliant in ascorbic acid treatment. It is one of the water-binding agents in makeup. Alpha hydroxy acid`s exfoliation and therapeutic properties help to minimize harmful influence of radiation (photodamaging), which is the main contributing ageing factor.
Thanks to dermal glycosaminoglycans content alpha hydroxy acid is considered to be rather efficient in dealing with over thickening of the skin (skin hyper-keratinization). Alpha hydroxy acid should properly be used in cosmetics manufacturing. Only then it is able to promote younger looking skin and minimize such ageing signs as lines, wrinkles, age spots, etc.
Alpha hydroxy acid is never allowed to be used in a single way. A cocktail of various botanical materials is advised for creation of synergistic and very efficient skin care compound. The best concentration of alpha hydroxy acid in cosmetics products is 5% to 8% at a PH rate of 3 to 4.
Speaking about alpha hydroxy acid it is relevant to consider its advantages as well as possible side-effects. This remedy has three basic benefits. Firstly, it provides wrinkle retaliation by removing dead skin cells in the outer epidermal skin layer. This is known to accentuate possible lines and wrinkles. Secondly, alpha hydroxy acid as one of the makeup components is able to make skin smoother, finer and younger looking. At last, this component provides skin cleansing. It loosens acne lesions and as a result allows enough sebum to flow into the skin. The manner of this flow is uniform, continuous and reducing new acne lesions formation.
Thus, alpha hydroxy acid makes the epidermis cells become ?unglued? and allows the dead skin cells to slough off. In this way room for skin regrowth is made. It also stimulates the elastin and collagen production. After month of daily application cosmetics with alpha hydroxy acid eliminates roughness, wrinkling and mottled pigmentation of skin (after excessive sun light).
There are two main alpha hydroxy acid possible side-effects: sun sensitivity (it may increase up to 50%) and sometimes irritation. Be aware that redness, itching, burning, scarring and pain are common symptoms of irritation caused by cosmetics containing alpha hydroxy acid. It has been established that people with darker skin are likely to have scarring pigment changes. So, you may face an interesting dilemma: alpha hydroxy acid is able to reverse damage caused by photoageing, but at the same time it can make skin become more sensitive and susceptible to it.
That`s why you should be aware of the following guidelines according to which alpha hydroxy acid is allowed to be used: the concentration must be less than 10% in cosmetics, the final product PH must be more than 3,5 and effective sunscreen.
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