Whitewater in the Nahanni

Are you looking for an exciting white water canoe trip that will last days instead of just a couple of hours; allowing for wilderness camping and hiking trips to round out the experience? Or, are you more interested in a leisurely canoe trip through a river valley rich in plant and wild life; taking pictures of unique rock formations and possibly exploring some shallow caves? Or, are you looking for a fly-in campsite with hot springs to relax in? All of these and more are available in Nahanni National Park in the Northwest Territories.
Located in the Mackenzie Mountains in the Northwest Territories, the Nahanni National Park Reserve sits astride the South Nahanni River. A true wilderness park, there are no roads within or leading to the park. The nearest road, the Laird Highway between Ft Simpson on the Mackenzie River and Ft Nelson, BC only approaches within 64 km of the park boundary. Access to the park is by boat, up the Laird River, or by float plane or helicopter from Yellowknife, Blackstone Territorial Park, or Hay River. It is no wonder that this remains a wilderness park.

On average there are less than a thousand visitors each year; most of them coming to take an extended trip down the South Nahanni River. The 270 km of the river that runs through the park drops a total of 475 meters in elevation within the park boundaries, 92 m of which is in one drop at the Virginia Falls. While there are lengths of the river that are relatively slow moving and placid, there are extended areas that one can find whitewater with class I thru class V rapids available at various times during the season. The season lasts from sometime in June to sometime in September depending on the weather. Peak season is July and August.

You must use a licensed outfitter for any river trips in Nahanni National Park. You can get information on which outfitters are currently licensed from the park administrative center in Ft. Simpson, NWT. Additionally, you must register with the park office before entering the park and upon leaving.

Float planes are only authorized to land at Rabbitkettle Lake and Virginia Falls. That makes these two locations the start points for the most common river trips. The trip from Rabbitkettle Lake to Virginia Falls takes three to four days and is rapid free. The trip through this broad valley is a good way to take in the scenic terrain and just enjoy nature and get away from people. Arrangements can be made to be picked up at Virginia Falls.

Starting at Virginia Falls you enter the first of four great canyons. The trip from Virginia Falls to Kraus Hot Springs (147 km) includes a number of rapids up to Class III with an average drop of 1.7 meters per kilometer. From there to Nahanni Butte the river slows, widens and branches for a trip through the Splits.

The trip from Virginia Falls it will take seven to ten days to reach Nahanni Butte where the Nahanni drains into the Laird River. The last 35 km of that trip is actually outside of the boundaries of the park. You can find your first taste of civilization at the Nahanni Butte General Store, with its coffee shop and motel. At the general store you can arrange for a water taxi for the trip to Blackstone Territorial Park or Blackstone Landing, the nearest road access.

For the person looking for faster rapids, there are alternate places for starting your trip. The Moose Ponds, 50 km upstream of Rabbitkettle Lake, provides nearly continuous Class II to Class IV rapids, depending on the water level in the Nahanni River. This stretch of the Nahanni is known as the Rock Gardens. Starting the trip after the first of August will require extensive portages. About half way between Moose Ponds and Rabbitkettle Lake, the Island Lakes provides an alternate point of entry.

Accessing the Little Nahanni River by land from Tungsten, you can find a 90 km stretch of this river with Class II to Class IV rapids. The Little Nahanni River enters the South Nahanni River between the Island Lakes and the Moose ponds. This trip will take 6 to 7 days to reach Rabbitkettle Lake. Another tributary of the South Nahanni River, the Flat River, can be accessed from Seaplane Lake, about 20 km upstream of the park boundary. This four to five day trip from Seaplane Lake to the South Nahanni River includes a number of stretches of rapids varying from Class II to Class V. The most challenging, The-Cascade-of-the-Thirteen-Steps should be avoided by all but the most experienced white water enthusiasts.

If you are interested in true wilderness river trip, you need to visit the Nahanni National Park Reserve in the Northwest Territories. The South Nahanni River and its tributaries provide a wide variety terrain and varieties of white water.
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